How does yarn twist affect the pilling resistance and abrasion resistance of bio-regenerated cotton fabrics

Yarn twist is one of the most critical parameters in textile science that determines the physical and mechanical properties of the final fabric. For bioregeneration cotton yarn, which prioritizes sustainability, precise control of twist is particularly important as it directly impacts the yarn's stability and durability within the fabric, specifically in terms of pilling resistance and abrasion resistance.

1. Basic Concept of Twist and Its Impact on Fiber Cohesion

Twist is defined as the number of twists per unit length of yarn, typically measured in twists/meter or twists/inch. Twist imparts cohesion to the yarn, tightly binding individual fibers into a continuous, stable structure.

Bioregeneration cotton yarn (particularly yarn containing recycled cotton fiber) has short fibers and a high short fiber content. Therefore, twist is crucial for effectively securing the short fibers.

Low twist: Insufficient interfiber friction (Friction) results in weak fiber cohesion. This results in a loose yarn structure, making it prone to slippage or disintegration under mechanical stress.

High twist: High radial pressure between fibers results in strong cohesion. The resulting dense yarn structure makes it more difficult for fibers to separate.

**Twist multiplier** is a key parameter used by textile engineers to control and optimize yarn properties. Given the characteristics of short fibers, a higher twist multiplier than virgin cotton is typically required to achieve comparable strength and performance.

2. The Impact of Twist on Fabric Pilling Resistance

Pilling resistance measures the ability of fibers on a fabric surface to form and retain small balls (pilling) during friction. Pilling occurs when fiber ends or loose fibers protrude from the fabric surface and become entangled during friction.

2.1 Low Twist and Pilling Tendency

In low-twist bio-regenerated cotton yarn fabrics:

Easy Fiber Release: Weak cohesion allows fiber ends to easily slip out of the yarn core.

Hairiness Formation: Numerous loose fiber loops or ends form on the yarn surface, which are the primary precursors to pilling.

Rapid Pilling Formation: Protruding fibers quickly entangle during friction, forming pills that easily fall off or adhere to the fabric surface.

Thus, low twist is a direct cause of the increased pilling tendency of bio-regenerated cotton fabrics, reducing the durability of the product's appearance.

2.2 High Twist and Anti-Pilling Advantages

In high-twist bio-regenerated cotton yarn fabrics:

Tight Fiber Anchorage: High radial pressure firmly secures short fibers and ends within the yarn, reducing the number of fibers protruding from the surface.

Hairiness Inhibition: The yarn surface is smooth, significantly reducing hairiness.

Preventing Fiber Tangle: Even if a small amount of fibers extend, their extremely high internal stress prevents them from becoming tangled and balled due to friction.

Professional twist control is a key technical measure for improving the pilling resistance of bioregenerated cotton knits and certain woven fabrics, helping to enhance customer satisfaction with product durability.

3. Twist Control of Fabric Abrasion Resistance

Abrasion resistance measures a fabric's ability to resist friction and abrasion. Its performance is related to the yarn's structural density and strength, as well as the friction characteristics between fibers.

3.1 The Balance Point Effect of Twist

The relationship between abrasion resistance and twist is not a simple linear positive correlation; rather, it lies at a balance point.

Optimal Twist: When twist is within the optimal range, interfiber cohesion is maximized, resulting in the highest yarn strength. This increased strength prevents the yarn from breaking or disintegrating when subjected to abrasive stress. This type of yarn offers the best overall abrasion resistance.

Excessive Twist: When twist is too high, the yarn becomes too rigid, reducing elongation and elasticity, while also increasing frictional damage between fibers. This rigid, brittle structure may break more easily with repeated bending and friction, resulting in reduced abrasion resistance.

For biorecycled cotton, a raw material with a high concentration of short fibers, the optimal twist is often slightly higher than that of virgin cotton yarn of the same count to minimize the strength loss caused by the short fibers.

4. The Value of Twist in Textile Design

When using biorecycled cotton yarn, textile designers and engineers must precisely adjust the twist based on the end product requirements:

For products requiring a soft feel and high moisture absorption (e.g., towels, underwear): Lower twist is preferred to maintain bulk, but some pilling resistance must be sacrificed.

For products requiring high durability and a smooth surface (e.g., denim, workwear): Medium to high twist is used to maximize yarn strength and abrasion resistance.

Precise control of twist, combined with the selection of appropriate spinning technology (such as rotor spinning), is a professional way to ensure that bio-regenerated cotton products meet sustainable development requirements while still maintaining excellent physical properties.